Cognac is a wine brandy produced in France in a demarcated region centered around Cognac, encompassing a large part of Charente, almost all of Charente-Maritime, and a few enclaves in Dordogne and Deux-Sèvres. The appellation 'Fine Champagne', controlled, signifies a Cognac coming exclusively from the best lands of the region, namely Grande Champagne (minimum 50%) and Petite Champagne.
Since the Middle Ages, the Cognac region (in Charente) has been known for its salt and wine trade. In the 16th century, the Dutch, major wine importers, sought a way to preserve Charente wines longer, as they were struggling to survive long journeys. They began distilling the wine to reduce its volume and stabilize it: this was the birth of brandewijn (“burnt wine”), the ancestor of brandy. Local producers improved the technique and developed double distillation in copper stills, producing a finer brandy.
Merchants discovered that brandy aged in oak barrels, taking on an amber color and complex aromas. This product became popular in Northern Europe and England. The region specialized in this production, and the name “Cognac” gradually became a benchmark for quality. Large trading houses emerged, such as Martell (founded in 1715), Rémy Martin (1724), Hennessy (1765), and Camus (1863).
Before the Second World War, Cognac was mainly consumed in the form of "fine à l'eau," that is, diluted with water; it is thus encountered in the investigations of Inspector Maigret. This practice has now become confidential.
Exported to the United States as early as the 18th century, Cognac was particularly popularized there by G.I.s after World War II, and adopted by African-American communities, as opposed to whiskey, the symbol of the WASP drink. It has become a true symbol in American hip-hop culture following its use in numerous rap videos. Some singers even advertise it. Cognac is called "yak" in these circles.
Cognac is now a luxury product, exported more than 95% internationally (especially to China and the United States). The great historic houses coexist with artisanal producers. It is classified by age (VS 2 to 4 years, VSOP 4 to 10 years, XO or Napoléon 10 years and older, see "Hors d'âge"). Cognac is a blend; it is the youngest element that counts for age. Note that before 2018, the minimum age for XO was only 6 years.
A VS or VSOP cognac is generally a young, powerful, and lacking maturity. It is therefore recommended to enjoy it as an aperitif. It can also be enjoyed over ice, as the cold will help to reduce its alcoholic strength and allow the aromas to fully express themselves.
As a digestif, opt for an XO or Extra cognac aged around fifteen years to take advantage of its maturity and intense aromatic profile. Enjoy your chosen cognac neat in a balloon glass. Hold the glass in your hand to warm the cognac and bring out all its aromas.
The main grape variety is Ugni Blanc, chosen for its acidity and low alcohol content, making it ideal for distillation. Harvesting takes place in late September or early October, and pressing is carried out immediately to prevent oxidation.
The grape juice is fermented naturally, without the addition of sugar or sulfur. The result is a dry, cloudy, acidic white wine (8–9°), not very pleasant to drink but perfect for distillation. This wine must be distilled before March 31 of the year following the harvest.
Distillation is carried out in a copper still known as a Charentais still. There are two successive heatings, the first producing the brouillis (28–32°) and the second separating the heads and tails to keep only the heart of the heating (≈ 70°). This slow, artisanal process produces a fine, aromatic eau-de-vie.
The eau-de-vie is placed in Limousin or Tronçais oak barrels. During aging, it softens, becomes richer in aromas (vanilla, spices, candied fruit), and takes on an amber color. A portion evaporates, this is the "angels' share" (~2%/year). The legal minimum aging period is 2 years, but often much longer for premium cognacs.
The cellar master blends different eaux-de-vie from different vintages and ages. This helps create a consistent aromatic profile for each brand. Before bottling, the alcohol content is gradually reduced (often to 40%). Once bottled, a cognac no longer ages.
Traditionally consumed as a digestif, Cognac is also enjoyed as an aperitif, where it is drunk with tonic and an ice cube, a cocktail popularized by the Bisquit house under the name "surfer".
